Central Montana's Russell Country Travel Blog

Cattle Drive a Success

Well, the rain continued during the rest of the cattle drive. I decided it created a pretty atmosphere and I'm sure the cows and horses were glad it wasn't too hot.

I thought the grass was lush although some of the cowboys said it wasn't nearly as tall as it had been in previous years.

This photo shows the cattle and riders coming down a dirt road, not too far from the corrals where they started.

The cattle traveled about two miles to get to the adjoining rancher's pasture.

After going through a couple more gates the cowboys let the cows and calves stop and "mother up".

I've heard the term mothering up before and I associated it with cows but I guess I never really knew what it meant.

When the cows and calves came to a pasture they stopped and the cowboys just waited on their horses while cows found their calves who may have gotten behind them  or mixed in with others during the move. It was interesting to watch all of them "mothering up".

A couple of the calves were pretty feisty at times and one of the cowboys said their natural instinct was to turn around and go back to the former pasture, especially if they couldn't find their Mom.  

It was a fun day and I took many photos.

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Getting Ready To Move Cattle

Moving cattle around is part of ranch life. Sometimes it's just from pasture to pasture so the grass doesn't get eaten too short. Other times it's to get cattle out of hot summer weather so they are moved to higher ground.

No matter the reason, it is a fun day when you see the herd moving along with riders on horseback behind.

There is usually a dog too - in these parts is is probably a blue heeler. Heelers have a short and stubby appearance but they can move like they have endless energy.

We were in the Adel mountain range near Cascade, Montana to move cattle. They were going from one landowner's pasture to a neighbor's ranch so it wasn't far.

As I headed from Great Falls to the Cascade exit on I-15 it wasn't raining but clouds overhead told me it could be a strong possibility that we'd have rain before we were done. I actually had to turn the windshield wipers on before I got there.

I decided to look on the positive side - the spring grass growth was green all around me, the wildflowers were beginning to bloom, there was no wind and the landscape was beautiful.  

When I got to the ranch the riders were in the corrals making sure their horses and gear were ready for the day.

It seemed like a long time before they started moving the cows. I couldn't figure out why they just didn't get started - I was excited and also worried that the rain might get worse.

I kept myself busy by taking photos of the landscape and was glad when I spotted the deer in the trees and arrowleaf balsamroot in the foreground.

Finally, I saw a group of five riders moving up the hillside. The plan was to move the cattle away from where I was at first to get around a fence, then come back my way.

We decided to change our position so we wouldn't spook the cows and calves. I wanted to get some good photos but didn't want to be in the way.

We moved up a hill, then waited until an advance rider came to open the gate. The first leg of the cattle drive was completed - there were a couple more gates to go through in order to get to the right pasture.

I was able to get some closeup photos while we waited for the herd to gather - chaps, horses, boots...you name it, I was taking pictures and having fun!

The cowboys were working hard and I told them I was too. Rain was coming at a pretty steady pace now and it didn't bother anyone but me. Note to self - bring a hat that can get wet and still keep the water off my head.

Stay tuned - we'll finish this cattle drive!

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Scenic Drive Through Rocky Boy's Indian Reservation

I was on my way to Chinook in northern Montana last weekend and had a little spare time so I decided to turn in to the little town of Box Elder and drive through Rocky Boy.

When you are traveling on US Hwy 87 the terrain seems relatively flat. Area farmers grow plenty of small grain crops ranging from wheat and barley to a nice variety of pulse crops (peas, lentils). A lesson about agriculture - if you pull up the root of a pulse crop you'll see small nodules on it and that's where nitrogen falls down from the plant and puts it back in to the soil. Moisture is always welcome and it has been raining this week so let's hope everyone has all of their seeding done.

Back to my drive - after I drove through Box Elder I could see the Bear Paw Mountains in the distance. Since I was raised near the Bear Paws I pronounce it the way it is typed here. Some folks say Bear's Paw and I tend to think they are absolutely wrong!

Small clusters of homes, typical on our reservations, signify the close-knit families of Native Americans. A paved non-motorized path paralleled the highway I was traveling on when I turned in to the reservation.

Rocky Boy is home to the Chippewa Cree tribe, actually two tribes that combined when Chief Rocky Boy (Chippewa) and Chief Little Bear (Cree) were seeking land for their people. Rocky Boy Indian Reservation was created in 1916 by an act of Congress - different from other reservations that were created by treaties.

Rocky Boy is the smallest reservation in Montana and the Chippewa Cree tribe is also the smallest tribe. Originally, the reservation boundaries would have included what is known today as Beaver Creek Park but that land was removed from the Congressional act leaving the tribe with about 56,000 acres.

The land on Rocky Boy was looking absolutely beautiful when I was there last weekend. Recent moisture (although we always can use more) had turned the short grass green and spring seemed to be popping up everywhere.

The competetive spirit of our Native Americans was evident as I saw the sign touting recent sports championships. I had just read that three graduating seniors from Rocky Boy were recently recruited to play college basketball for the University of Great Falls.

Ranching is evident on this grazing land although there isn't a lot of tillable land for farming.

Everywhere I looked on my short drive I wanted to take a photo. The Bear Paw Mountains captured my attention to the south, the Sweetgrass Hills northwest of Rocky Boy looked like an artist had painted them.

We have several "square buttes" in Central Montana and this feature on Rocky Boy can be easily seen from US Hwy 87. It is long and looks flat-topped, not as square as some of our other buttes. Other notable mountains on Rocky Boy are Baldy Butte and Centennial Mountain.

Beautiful day, beautiful drive. 

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Old Fort Benton Opens With a Bang

Actually, the Old Fort at Fort Benton opened with a "boom"!

The firing of the cannon has become a ritual for celebrations at the restored Old Fort Benton in this small historic town.

Dubbed the "Birthplace of Montana", Fort Benton was the site of many steamboats who came up the Missouri River in the 1800s. This was the farthest they could come without getting in to the upstream series of waterfalls.

Fur traders, Native Americans and folks who came west looking for fortune all connected in Fort Benton so the moniker "Bloodiest Block in the West" also became quite fitting.

Fast forward to May 24, 2013.

I was sitting inside the fort perimeter with lots of history lovers.

The celebration was a kick off to Fort Benton's museums and heritage complex opening for the summer.

Included in the complex are the State of Montana's Agricultural Museum (also with archives,  library and re-creation of an old town outside), the museum on the levee adjacent to the fort with focus of the fur trade era, the Old Fort and BLM's Upper Missouri River Breaks Interpretive Center.

Visitors can purchase one admission ticket that is good for all of the museums and the Old Fort.

Costumed interpreters give guided tours of the Old Fort during summer months and visitors can check out the other museums on their own schedule.

The restored Old Fort has become so much more than just a fort - in addition to the trade store, you can see great historic displays and artifacts with emphasis on Native Americans and their traditional way of life, a blacksmith shop, living quarters for the head of the fort and, more recently, a beautiful art gallery named the Starr Gallery.

The Starr Gallery has Karl Bodmer prints displayed portraying early days on what we now call the Upper Missouri River. There is also a stunning exhibit of Bob Scriver's "No More Buffalo" series of bronzes.

The celebration of the summer opening of Fort Benton's visitor attractions also included a concert by Blackfeet troubadour Jack Gladstone. I could have listened twice as long but changing weather told us that it was time to help pack things up and head home.

The flag of the American Fur Company was still proudly waving over the fort as we drove away. The vast blue sky and lush trees in the park formed a perfect backdrop.

 What an evening!

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Montana Fishing Season Opens

The third Saturday in May is when Montana's general fishing season opens. This year that was May 18. The general season closes November 30.

Not to make things confusing, but, Montana's lakes and reservoirs are generally open year round.

I was driving on I-15 this weekend and lamented the heavy cloud cover.

Clouds bring rain though and they must make for pretty good fishing conditions because I saw quite a few drift boats and plenty of fishermen wading in the river.   

The Missouri River is a blue ribbon rated trout river with over 2,000 trout per mile.

As you drive along I-15 between Great Falls and Helena, you parallel and cross the Missouri several times. 

Brown "jumping fish" signs indicating public access are dotted along the interstate highway and the frontage road (old highway).

We did get rain, not too long after I took the photo above, and it didn't seem to bother the fisherman at all. That rain (a blessing in Montana) continued all weekend and brought much needed moisture.

So, were the fish biting?

You'll have to find that out for yourself and what a great reason to get out and experience our streams, rivers, lakes and reservoirs!

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Fun Antique Show in Collins, MT

Last weekend I wanted to go to an antique sale organized by the Virgelle Mercantile in Collins, Montana.

I called a friend and her response was, "sure, where is Collins"? That's a typical response when people hear the name of the town.

It really isn't a town any more. There is a sign for the Collins road off I-15 between Great Falls and Conrad, more specifically between Dutton and Brady.

There are several farm homes after you turn off the interstate, also a new elevator which will unload grain trucks fast and a fertilizer plant.

I saw this beautiful red barn with a unique shape and had to take a photo of it.

After I turned off I-15 I drove about 5 miles on gravel to get to the antique sale. Several cars were parked outside the building where the sale was and I was eager to get inside.

The antiques were organized beautifully.

I can't imagine moving that much furniture to this little town but that is part of the appeal of the sale. It definitely is not on the beaten path!

Homemade baked goods, fresh coffee, some pretty good buys and many interesting things too look at - all combined for a great outing to Collins, MT.

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Bike Race to Eden

The Great Falls Bike Club sponsored a road race yesterday from Broadwater Bay in the center of Great Falls to the turn for the community of Eden south of Great Falls.

The bike racers would ride approximately 26 miles. The super serious bike racers would do that twice because, well, they can. And they love to ride!

I wanted to get them coming up a hill in an open area but the timing didn't work. I had committed to a volunteer opportunity that started right after the race would begin so I figured I would only able to catch the racers as they left the staging area.

A parking area at Broadwater Bay was the staging area and it was beautiful - late morning sun glimmering on the Missouri River with a temperature near 60 degrees. It would get even warmer as the day progressed. Yes, spring has arrived!

I went upstream a bit to Elks Riverside Park and crossed the road to get a better shot.

Camera ready - check. I-Pad ready in case I want to do video - check. I waited. I tried to be patient but I knew I couldn't stay too long or else I'd be late for my volunteer job.

All of a sudden I saw one bike rider blazing towards me. I thought my camera was ready but the lens cap was still on to protect it from the bright sun. Dang! I did get two photos of the advance rider - one was blurry and the other was his backside!

While I was looking at my digital photos on my camera, all of a sudden I heard something. At first it sounded like running water but it was the noise from about 15 bike racers coming towards me at top speed.

Quick, switch out of review mode, focus and get a shot. I didn't get many photos but thankfully I was able to get these!

I saw three separate groups that would bike this race. All seemed filled with adrenaline to get those bike wheels turning. I wish I could have stayed to see the ending. Maybe next time!

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Traveling to Turner

Mention the town of Turner, Montana and some life-long Montana residents get a puzzled look on their face.

The town's location is about 35 miles north of Harlem (US Hwy 2) and 12 miles south of the US/Canada border. 

The border crossing, named after the Saskatchewan town of Climax, helps bring Canadian travelers to the community and also makes a shorter trip for US citizens heading in to Canada.

I stopped along the paved road between Harlem and Turner several times to admire the vast big sky.

In every direction the views were wide open. To the north I could see miles and miles of crop and grazing land. When I looked south I saw the Bear Paw Mountains. 

The land here is production based - grain crops (wheat, oats) and cattle and sheep ranching.

Massive grain fields, some irrigated, some dryland, literally run for miles. I was able to get an up-close tour of one cattle ranch near Turner. They were almost done with calving so I had great photo ops with all of the newborn calves.

If you travel to Turner, make sure to stop at Kimber's Border Bar and Cafe. The day I was there one table of six women had driven down from Canada for lunch. Quite a few locals stopped in during lunchtime.

As I traveled back to Harlem I stopped again for one more photo. This is taken looking south from Turner.

Turner is small but it should not be overlooked. Just the drive to and from Turner is impressive. I felt like I owned the road. 

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A Quick Tour of Brady

Last weekend I was waiting to meet someone who had a late start so I decided to take the Brady exit off I-15 that I always had planned to take one day when I had time. Yes, it took me several years to find the time!

Our weather was pretty fickle that day - sunny skies one minute, clouds the next, followed by short-lived flurries of snowflakes.

Brady sits on the west side of I-15 about 45 miles north of Great Falls. It's typical of many small towns in Montana with population declines. They have combined schools with a neighboring community for efficiency and businesses need to work extra hard to keep their doors open.

I drove through town. It was about 8 am and you could tell who was serving coffee!

Several pickup trucks were parked in front of three businesses on Brady's main street. I did a double-take when I saw the sign for Dusty's. I can only imagine that at one time Monte and Suzanne also owned this local gathering spot!

I drove around town and saw a nice community park with a restroom, shade trees and play equipment for kids - a great stop for families looking for a place to let kids get out of the car and run and play.

The view to the west of Brady was beautiful, even with some darker clouds overhead.

The Rocky Mountain Front was snow-capped and that gave good contrast to the wheat stubble field closer in.

I circled around through town again and was surprised to see a train coming.

I didn't even realize there were tracks along here but then I remembered that I was in wheat country (it's called the Golden Triangle for all of the wheat grown here).

Farmers have the option of taking grain to several elevators around Brady and those elevators need rail lines to complete the grain's journey. Makes sense.

It was a good photo op although it would have been better if the tree had leafed out.

 And, I'm fairly sure the person driving that train thought I was a bit odd for taking the photo!

I enjoyed my tour of Brady. Next time I'll plan my stop around some of the meal specials served at Dusty's - biscuits and gravy on Saturday morning, evening specials, lunch specials - my options are wide open!

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Carter River Ferry In For the Season

This morning I got up early, packed my video camera and regular camera, and out the door I went.

My destination - 5 miles beyond Carter, Montana, a small town about 25 miles north of Great Falls on US Hwy 87.

It was dark when I left but the sun was about ready to turn in to a full blown sunrise and my camera was handy. I was not disappointed. In fact, I turned on to a county road and stopped after I was about 7 or 8 miles out of Great Falls and started taking photos. Excellent I told myself.

Back on the highway, I pointed my wheels to Carter.

After another 4 or 5 miles I couldn't help it - I found another gravel road intersecting the highway and I stopped again. Those photos of sunrise were probably the best. I was a little too eager the first time I stopped.

I turned right (east) at Carter and took the gravel road to the Missouri River, 5 miles off the highway. I passed black angus cows and a few calves, lots of grain bins and a herd of about 5 deer.

It must be too early or muddy for seeding so most of the fields were just stubble or winter wheat poking through.

On to my main story which is the seasonal "launch" of the Carter ferry on the Missouri River (also referred to as the Upper Missouri).

The other day I had a visitor call and ask when the river ferries would be going in so I called around until I found the number for the operator at Carter. After a few calls back and forth he told me the Chouteau County road crew would be there early this morning.

In addition to considerable advance planning and equipment moving, it took two road graders, side by side, to move the ferry from the dirt on which it sat all winter. Each one had a rubber car tire on the front of it as a buffer or bumper pad.

It was quite sight to see and, a noisy one at that!

The current ferries are fairly new, about 3 years old. They were constructed to look like the old ones though. 

Obvious improvements were made - making the bottom part watertight so you don't have to bail water when you launch was a good change. 

Overhead cables that span the Missouri River are now about 1.5 inches thick.

There are limits to the number of people allowed on the ferry at one time (six total) and two vehicles can be loaded for a crossing. The two vehicle load is hard to believe but I've seen that multiple times and they really do fit.

Engines were upgraded and the "buzzer system" to call the operator when you want a ride was connected to a phone line. There is a hand-lettered sign by the river that says "Ring Buzzer for Three Seconds.

It's about 800 feet across the Missouri River at this ferry crossing. When you get to the other side there are farms and roads that connect travelers to Fort Benton, Highwood and points beyond. Once the ferry is in the water and operating it saves considerable time for locals traveling in the area.

After the ferry was in the water a road grader-type piece of equipment with a bucket on it brought in several loads of dirt to make the landing at the river bank smooth for vehicles to access the ferry.

The final test was to load a vehicle on the ferry and make sure everything worked.

New signs warning river floaters and boaters of the low overhead cable were attached to the cable. I learned that the new signs are made of highly reflective material. With the sun shining on them it defintely proved that point! 

Central Montana has three river ferries all on the Missouri River.

Going downstream from Great Falls the first one you come to is at Carter. The second is at Virgelle and the third is about 15 miles north of Winifred (called the McClelland ferry). The Virgelle and McClelland ferries aren't in the river yet but probably will be in a few weeks.

I've ridden on all of the river ferries on the Upper Missouri River, many times! It's one of those unique and fun things to do when you are out for a drive in Central Montana.

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